Be a good inheritor of traditional textile civilization and a watcher of contemporary fashion art

The gorgeous Ming and Qing dynasty weaving embroidery, colorful ethnic costumes, noble and elegant lace jackets... During the 17th Huan Dong Hua Fashion Week, the Shanghai Textile and Apparel Museum held a series of exhibitions on “Cultural Confidence and Cultural Responsibility”. A "symphony" that blends Chinese heritage, national synergy, and Chinese and Western fashion.

One stitch and one thread weaving Chinese traditional culture

In the Tang Dynasty, the precious paintings of the Birds and the Pearls, the Yuan Dynasty's geometric woven gold brocades, the Ming Dynasty's dragon-patterned satin pieces, the Qing Dynasty's 12-breasted robes, etc....The traditional Chinese woven embroidery culture opened on April 24th today. On the exhibition, a collection of 107 precious traditional woven embroidery exhibits carefully collected by famous folk collector Li Yulai for more than 30 years, showing the cultural soul, artistic beauty and skill of traditional Chinese textiles.

China's 5,000-year-old traditional textile and clothing civilization has gradually reached its peak in the Ming and Qing Dynasties. This exhibition is mainly based on the Ming and Qing dynasty weaving and embroidery, and also traces the Tang and Yuan fabrics. “Donghua has the best textile discipline in the country. I hope to present the most representative and exquisite traditional woven embroidery exhibits in its textile and apparel professional museum.” Mr. Li Yulai told reporters that he was fully prepared for this exhibition. For more than ten years, the exhibits presented here have been carefully collected from thousands of woven embroidery collections.

Among the exhibits, a colorful embroidered 12-year-old robes of Ming and Huangjiang silks are particularly eye-catching. The robes are an important ceremonial dress of the Qing Dynasty, which symbolizes the identity and status of the wearer. The costume system of the Qing Dynasty made a strict definition of the dragon robe. Only the emperor, the crown prince and the heirs can wear the robes, and others must not wear them. This 12-piece robes of dragon robes should be worn by the emperor according to the clothing system. For the late Qing Dynasty weaving embroidery, the appearance is good, the style is the round neck, the big armor and the sleeves are open, and the robes are on the front of the dragon. In front of the plane, the dragon body converges in a squat; the dragon dragon heads sideways, supplemented by sea water cliffs, colorful clouds, a kind of king of the Megatron world.

There are also five pieces of hyperthyroidism in the exhibits, which are the first publicly launched, including the early reading of the armor, the official armor and other armor, as well as bow and arrow sets, heart guards and other accessories. As an ancient "bullet-proof vest", the appearance of hyperthyroidism has been associated with frequent wars in history and has been used for thousands of years.

China is a big country silk, embroidery very long history. Li Xiaojun, the co-curator, said: "Weaving and embroidering is one of the representatives of ancient Chinese traditional handicrafts. Many treasures have been preserved in the long history of 5,000 years."

National costumes tell colorful national stories

56 ethnic groups of 56 ethnic groups, China has been a multi-ethnic country since ancient times. In addition to the most basic warm-up function, clothing also reflects the unique culture of each nation. “Technology·Memory – China Southern Minority Costumes Exhibition” will be held on April 25th, and will showcase clothing, woven and embroidered fabrics of Yi, Buyi, Miao, Yao, Yi, Zhuang, Li and Aqua. Exhibits. Combining the pictures, texts and related research results of the southwestern ethnic minority fieldwork, the audience has drawn a colorful and colorful national costume picture.

"This smock is the old Miao costume that was worn by the Miao ancestors during the festival, and was passed down as a special form in religious ceremonies." Li Suqin pointed to a seemingly outdated costume and told reporters that the Miao nationality is a nation without words, but the costumes will also "speak", telling the ancient and long history of the Miao nationality through special "language" such as styles and patterns. culture.

On the vast land of the motherland, the culture of each nation is characterized by patterns, colors and techniques, and ancient myths and legends and folk customs are sewn into national costumes. Different from the previous people's cognition of the gorgeous beauty of national costumes, many national costumes in this exhibition show their most authentic and simple appearances. In order to collect the physical exhibits of these ethnic costumes, the museum staff has a lot of footprints. In Yunnan, Guizhou, Guangxi, Hainan and other places, systematic data collection, analysis and special research on national costumes, to understand the stories behind minority costumes, to explore the distinct and unique cultural connotations of different ethnic groups, to inherit and promote national culture.

A hundred years of lace talk about Chinese and foreign fashion art

In 2016, 33 sets of Haipai cheongsam boutiques from the Shanghai Textile and Apparel Museum of Donghua University debuted at the Edinburgh Festival in the UK, highlighting the “Chinese Charm”. This year, the University of Edinburgh presented the “Western Temperament” with the 100-year-old Lace in the East China Fashion Week. For the media, it has built a bridge between Chinese and Western fashion culture.

As one of the "Cultural Confidence and Cultural Responsibility" series of exhibitions, the "Hundred Years of Lace, the Beauty of Design" exhibition was opened on the 20th. This exhibition is the first time that the Shanghai Textile and Apparel Museum cooperates with the University of Edinburgh in the UK, and it is the first time to adopt the Chinese and foreign joint curatorial team. Presenting the lace fashion art from the other side of the ocean. This is a “small and beautiful” exhibition. The scale is not too beautiful. The exhibition is based on the history and innovation of western lace. The content includes contemporary lace fabrics, lace creative costumes, western lace costume portraits and lace development history. It took four days to attract a lot of audience, especially the beautiful lace jacket in the exhibition left a deep impression on everyone.

When a soft and delicate lace meets a handsome and tough jacket, what kind of fashion spark will it collide? Mal Burkinshaw, the English curator of the exhibition and director of the Fashion Department of the Edinburgh College of Art, told reporters that in 2014 he visited the Shanghai Textile and Apparel Museum. The exquisite details and craftsmanship of Chinese traditional costumes impressed him. The idea of ​​lace jackets was In his mind, it took more than 1300 hours to create this unique set of creative lace jackets.

It is worth mentioning that the image authorization and cooperation of the National Portrait Gallery of Scotland and the assistance and support of the Sophie Hallette Lace Workshop have made this exhibition more colorful. The exhibition will last until June 30th.

As the chief curator of this series of exhibitions, the director of the Shanghai Textile and Apparel Museum, the vice chairman of the China Fashion Designers Association, and the director of the Shanghai Fashion Capital Promotion Center, Professor Xiang Xiangyang emphasized that the “Cultural Confidence and Cultural Responsibility” series of exhibitions, Based on China's excellent traditional costume culture, the introduction of Western excellent design, the establishment of the Chinese fashion culture with the "Chinese spirit, Chinese value, and Chinese power" in the new era and the construction of Shanghai fashion capital, contributing to Donghua University and Shanghai Textile and Apparel Museum Cultural responsibility.

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