Lead: Whether it is in Milan or Paris, in the men's Week, I continue to feel such a message - the latest season, the spring and summer of 2010 men's overwhelmingly replace the last few years that streamlined tight profile, tall and burly model Also replaced the little boy-like thin shape. In periods of economic downturn, men may prefer natural comforts to wear to wear again. Versace warrior lead the first day of the weather Day1 Sunday, June 21 Versace warrior lead the first air to arrive in Milan on the first day to Versace in Piazza Vetra1 show. When I arrived 15 minutes in advance, the doorway was filled with dispatchers for independent fashion magazines and photographers from various street shooting sites. However, the audience did not seem very polite to them, most of them directly ignored the camera lens and hurriedly admitted. A moment before the opening, the preparation hall at the entrance was packed with Anna Piaggi standing out in the crowd. Donnatella Versace is constantly looking out from the curtain to look, it seems a bit anxious. The famous fashion editor Tim Blanks is standing on the T stage to accept an interview with Fashion TV - he was very much looking forward to this show. Versace's men have been drowsy for quite a few quarters before Alexandre Porkhov became design consultant. Versace at this season finally did not live up to Tim Blanks earnest expectations. This season's Versace mens garments inspired by the French volunteers. These male model warriors were presumed to be missing in the desert tribes, exotic sense of the local clothing style and military uniform subtly mixed together, there was waist belt suit jacket, officer shirt, tribal printed traces of crocodile skin coat, Deep V-necked bow-vest, chest pocket with a large jacket, and as the lining of repeated exotic and knee-length shirt. Of course, the clothes on the imitation uniform pins, neck tied a lot of tether necklaces and hanging sunglasses, are prominent themes of the details. With a piece of thin toe and knee long shirt swept past, light, relaxed, comfortable three key words clearly highlighted. And soon after we found that these keywords almost become the next few days Milan and Paris Men's Week hot words. This release of Versace set a new tone for the season: to subvert the tight-fitting men's fashion trend. Vivid and lively white jacket, thin, revealing the skin long shirt, these are the most lovable part of the release, also will become one of the important trends in men's this season. Of course, they look more suitable for the beach wear on the T stage. The opening day of the model is Kylie Minogue supermodel boyfriend Andres Segura. As one of Spain's three male models, he became a hot topic of the day. From the moment Andres embarked on the pedestal, the Tim Blanks on the stage began to laugh. The smile lasted until the end of the show - a rare expression on other shows. The last model debut moment is very exciting. Ms. Donnatella himself seems quite relaxed. In an interview after the show, she said that this series reached the goal she had expected before, is a "very emotional" one-quarter men's clothing. And a lady behind me gave me a thumbs up: "This time Alexandre proved his meaning." Day2 Monday, June 22 Creative Strategies in the Downturn While many media and fashion enthusiasts speak in discourse Ms. Prada's style of intellectuals expressed general interest, but as the brand is very easy to sell and wear every season, Prada show floor is still full of brim, looking ahead, even the station are almost not inserted into the. I entered the show field and I feel Versace gas field completely different from the previous, the interior layout showed an unprecedented sense of indifference, stretch the ground floor was black and gray. Sitting next to the Hong Kong media quietly speculated: "This may be seen in the dark gray color of the intellectuals." Sure enough, Prada this season's key words are two-color. Black and white images projected on the huge wall, the designer himself admits that men's inspiration for this season is the source of black and white movie actor - masculine body, literary heart. It is said that even the background supply of drinks is Black Russian - cocktails made with coffee and vodka. However, although male models are black and white actor, their clothes are black and gray on the screen. Designer I interviewed in the show, made a very clever interpretation of the main colors Prada this season: "Men are very fond of gray suit, so I started to use this color." She said. The new season's Prada is to discuss men's favor, from the appearance of the opening appearance of men can not help but sigh can be seen on the sigh. What we see is still the typical gray suit of the Prada, but it is completely different from the profiles of the previous quarters - no longer a terribly narrow or over-tightened style. Cascading parts are also very easy to wear, charming color overlay and more daily style, making the audience can not help but clap hands. Interestingly, this menswear week, a large number of brands showing a group of "travel vacation" boom, Prada is still contributing to the office men's new clothes - these fashion should be labeled as "stylish office elegant uniform," the label, even if In times of economic downturn, they are still the new basic models that every man can not afford too much. This is also a smart little lady Prada at special times it. Instead, Calvin Klein, who has long been known for its high wearability, has lost her realism. Italo Zucchelli, the newly-awarded designer, dazzles a wide range of fabrics. Seen in the eyes of the audience, either mesh sleeve jacket, tight on the legs of the "fitness pants", or else it is boring black suit. Can see that, designers want to "freshness" three words appear, but they are marked too obvious, or even over. After the conference ended, neither the subtle Asian media nor the candid Western fashion reporter shook his head repeatedly. TODS accessories brand static display on the completion of a done in the 1930s called Villa Necchi Campiglio's rich mansion. The garden has Milan's first swimming pool, fully revealing the traditional style of TODS Italian brand. Although there is no break through the new ideas at all, but in the economic downturn, thousands of years of unbeaten but the best guarantee wear frequency, of course, has become a guarantee of sales. Day3 Tuesday, June 23 Italy veteran new hotel we live in Hotel Nhow just 10 minutes walk from the night before CANALI show, the 2010 spring and summer new show, is CANALI history of the first such huge men's Show, but also to commemorate the 75th anniversary of the establishment of the brand commemorative show. It is precisely because of the significance of such a significant, not yet reached the door last night, we can already see a large number of people under pressure to make a concerted effort, without losing the other fame of fashion brands. Italian men's clothing to win the fabric and tailoring, in addition to fashion-style, but also long-term provision of traditional custom clothing, always ensure high quality. Although the new season's style is still based on traditional models, but the audience here can clearly feel the new idea. The double-breasted top is the most important character of the season. The costume is inspired by the Art Deco style. It features natural tones such as light gray and sand, as well as bright colors like turquoise, violet and coral. Most notable is the designer's use of silk-and-linen blends - coupled with satin and mother-of-pearl buttons, a combination of classic and modern styles. Italian men's choice of fabric and creativity, is their most worthwhile for whom the money factor, which is the so-called Italian quality assurance. CANALI custom suits style stylish self-cultivation design, but by no means exaggerated. The fabric is made of soft fabrics such as silk, ultra-fine wool and linen, and is also well-worn in Mediterranean colors (a mixture of white and light blue) or a low-key earth tone. Another protagonist of the night, is the most famous brand "Kei Jacket." They are not only light and casual, soft and comfortable texture (some people wear it like wearing a shirt), but also to ensure durability, is CANALI one of the most proud of a single product. Leisure series have a clear sense of outline, fabric and color than the dress series more lively. It is worth mentioning that, designers pay great attention to the sense of detail in this series, although the leisure series, but also reveal the refined and modern feel free. As a follow-up to the fashion show, today we visit CANALI's new showroom. It is located in one of the most characteristic and historic areas in Milan, where many fashion houses have showrooms, painter's studios and specialty shops. You will be surprised to stand in the midst of this 1,400-square-meter two-storey showroom - in a quiet and cozy garden, there is such a busy scene. At this point, the spring and summer new clothes just displayed the night before are being displayed here. The buyers and the media from all over the world are pouring in an endless stream. Day4 June 25 Thursday The maverick Louis Vuitton Milan men's event comes to an end, Paris Men's Week followed immediately opened on Thursday. The first day LouisVuitton conference can be described as unexpected. First, the show is set up in the 18th district called "104 lecent quatre" - someone told me before going to the show that there was a "not so good" one. Disorderly law and order in the area, the quality of residents can not be compliment, passers wear and dress are very different from ordinary people in Paris, there is no sense of fashion at all, even the roadside restaurants seem dilapidated. Later, I learned that this venue is a newly emerging creative park with trendy galleries, restaurants and shopping malls. Due to its dense population, there is also a special graffiti exhibition area. The show floor is far from the city center (the media missed the entire show because it could not find the venue), but still attracted many guests. Louis Vuitton's show is still delayed for tens of minutes, but Marc Jacobs's late habits have improved a lot, and most of the invited stars are also arrived early. Louis Vuitton released the first quarter of this season can be described as the crown of Milan and Paris, the arrival of the stars caused the media turmoil, and even fashion reporters rushed to the front of the screen suddenly press the shutter. France's most popular actor Rapha l Personaz, Helly Berry's boyfriend Gabriel Aubry (as a supermodel he also guest walked stretch table), Hollywood actor BradleyCooper, singer Keziah Jones, Black Eyed Peas composer Fergie all debut. Fergie said: "We all love those men's shoes and they're very eye-catching on the stage!" Suzy Menkes, a well-known fashion commentator, raced Fergie while holding a small film machine, Arms both leave. Mention clothing, Louis Vuitton this release, intended to express the romantic sense of fashion. The male models, known as Gentlemen Butterflies, play bicycling postmen and walk up the stands as soon as a bicycle bell and the ambient sounds of New York City. Interestingly, this season LouisVuitton's new series, with a very sense of the other brands have a broad outline of the run counterpoint. Postman gentlemen have dressed in a tight and sporty new clothes. Designer Paul Helbers commented on this: "The first riders in New York is so worn. With only traditional fabrics, functional tailoring, jacket jacket shrink a little short, closed at the cuffs, pants because of the convenience of action , The relationship between dirty and rolling up and narrowing.This time we put these elements of the modernization, use more light and some futuristic fabrics, such as rubber and double-sided fabric mixed.Wash the old washed calf is also very worthwhile Recommended fabric, it seems to be the past and present together. "Accessories are also echoed the" postman "theme, such as decorative bracelets and belts are made into a bicycle chain look, hanging on the model neck It is cycling glasses sunglasses. Men's designer Paul Helbers's work has been more favorable since the inception of a season than the first quarter, the brand's men's and accessories sales pushed to another small climax, this season Marc Jacobs debut, the whole process of Paul Helbers applauded the whole process quite A sense of sympathy. From the venue to the music, from models to styles, Louis Vuitton all surprise, in a sense, almost against the trend line. This shows that even in times of economic downturn, it is still the best way to adhere to creativity and style. Day5 Friday, June 26 Black Friday Michael Jackson, the world's most famous black idol, died on the same day. In the show where he has been beloved Givenchy, we actually saw a large group of black models and fashion inspired by the black movement of the fashion. This brand new season of elegant and well-known release suddenly took the street style, North American black style, some people caught by surprise. It is said that Riccardo Tisci and Michael Jackson were scheduled to meet on Monday to talk about the specifics of concert costume design. Who knows, with the idol's death, a so-called cooperation is so canceled. Even more frustrating to Tisci, his new collection reverberated. There was almost no positive comment by the media on his show "Latin Boy in Morocco". TimBlanks ironically said: "Tisci's Latin boy seems to be forever in a strange place." The more insidious media was harsh on the spot: "Compare with the previous RickOwens, my dear!" Most admired as Michael Jackson Riccardo Tisci, one of the show's costume designers, may have used this upcoming partnership as a source of inspiration. This season his work is full of strange sense of inconsistency with the previous season, those men's pantyhose and tight pants sold well, so far beyond the limits. The designer's intention is to add more elegance to the style, but we see only one over-dressed black athlete. Mesh and tight vests, low crotch pants, hooded sweatshirts ... These elements were criticized for being "eye-catching traces." The only revealed traces of sophisticated cut, I am afraid only shirts, trousers (was embedded in an Indian girdle) and lapel suit. The editors who walked out of the show were quick to talk to each other about this show, and some even exaggerated to say that they would go for a cool drink. Cathy Horyn, a New York Times fashion commentator, said: "I think the biggest difficulty with Tisci is that as a designer he has a lack of sense of humor." Despite the frustration of Tisci, the black model was on the show floor at Givenchy Limelight. Calvin Klein, the opening and closing models selected this time, 21-year-old French black model DavidAgbodji is more for the fashion industry, a pungent shot hit. As we all know, Calvin Klein's opening model is always an important symbol of popularity of the models, but also indicates the direction of the brand's next step. Major media have speculated that in the near future may see Agbodji's face appeared in CalvinKlein's big ads. Day6 | Day7 June 27, 28th Saturday, Day with the soft beauty of the United States Paris Men's Week coincides with the beginning of the discount period, the store in Paris have introduced an attractive discount. In Le Bon Marche department store, the girls rush to buy, looking ahead, there is no so-called sense of depression. Can be seen, even in the depression period, people also need fashion. Véronique Nichanian, men's designer at Hermès, says: "I'm not designing the trend, I'm designing clothes." Nichanian's attitude dictates that clothes are not too trendy, but surprisingly as usual welcome. Very sophisticated fabrics (linen and fine calfskin) with the basic style, with white black, copper green and earth color, everything is so easy to wear and comfortable, the most "breakthrough" color use, but also only one A green-fruit shirt worn in a dark, light-colored coat. Nichanian tighten the pants slightly, but did not make people feel exaggerated, but the visual effect is more compact, and most of the clothes can be considered large, we can see the white sweater, wide leg pants, and knitted back Relaxed long-sleeved T-shirt heart. "Cold love" - ​​Dior Homme designer Kris Van Assche men in this season played such a nice name. My first impression after watching the show was that Kris Van Assche was still consciously getting out of the way that Hedi Slimane had set for Dior Homme and at least Dior Homme was no longer gluing him in. Perspective is Van Assche's next major new trend for the coming season, those black translucent blouse is one of the most promising single commentators. Lightweight and creative fabric, it also maintained a sophisticated tailoring. The cascade also echoed the previously released trend, we can not only see the superposition of the inside and outside the clothes, but also to find the details of the inner and outer short cuffs - in the spring of 2010, it will be very rich sense of humor way of doing. Maison Martin Margiela also made this day's release very easy to wear and cut due to praise, white and brown as the basic colors, each look full of artistic, but not too much piled up a sense of design, difficult to upper body style. From the release of Dior, Hermès and Maison MartinMargiela, we also find loose and soft men's clothing to replace the tight-fitting style of the past period, tall and burly models to replace the little boy-like thin shape. In periods of economic downturn, men may prefer natural comforts to wear to wear again.
